I visited Cape Cod and Martha’s Vineyard with a different tour group for the second time in almost three months. Prior to visiting the first time, I was curious about the experience of Black Americans on the island. For years, I thought it was a place where on the Black elite went. I didn’t know anything about the history of Black Americans on the island. I learned that dating back to the 1950s, or earlier, many Black Americans of modest means had homes on Martha’s Vineyard.
Between visits, I researched more about Martha’s Vineyard and learned there were six towns. We visited Oak Bluffs and Edgartown. This time, when our ferry docked at Oak Bluff’s, I had questions for the tour director. I learned Oak Bluffs was previously known as Cottage City. It became a summer resort with large hotels all over town. Promoters viewed the town as a popular destination for young lovers and newlyweds. It was said that the popular midnight stroll along the ocean was called “bluffing.” The town also had a prominent oak tree, was re-incorporated in 1907, and named Oak Bluffs.
Inkwell Beach is located in Oak Bluffs. Since the 1890s this beach was the only beach where Black Americans could go. It was thought that the name “Inkwell,” was a derogatory name developed by white residents to belittle Black people. It was used to describe skin color. Other’s thought the name was a nod to the ink in the pens of writers, especially Black writers of the Harlem Renaissance. What we know is segregation existed, and Black Americans could not go to the other beaches.
I learned there is an African American Heritage Trail on Martha’s Vineyard. There are over 30 interesting stops. Initially, Black people were enslaved on the island. Many escaped the island with the help of the Wampanoag tribe. A woman named Nancy Michael was formerly enslaved. Eventually she rose to a position of influence in Edgartown. Her grandson, William A.Martin, became the only Black Master of Whaling Ships. Today, she has a memorial in Memorial Wharf in Edgartown.
In 1743, an enslaved woman named Esther was transported from Boston to North Carolina aboard the ship Endeavor. She was known as Esther the Fugitive Slave. Her hands and feet were bound with rope and iron chains. After a long voyage, the ship docked in Edgartown overnight. Abolitionists disguised as conductors helped her escape. She also has a memorial in Memorial Wharf in Edgartown.
Massachusetts was the first state to abolish slavery, but northern states were not exempt from the Fugitive Slave Act of 1850. This act was enacted by Congress in 1793 and guaranteed slave owners the right to recover run-away enslaved people. This act angered Northerners because they were against slavery and didn’t want to be forced to participate. They viewed this act as a stalking ground for bounty hunters. Some abolitionists built networks of safe houses to aid enslaved people escape to Canada. Martha’s Vineyard became part of the Underground Railroad to help enslaved people escape to freedom.
Around 1912, Charles and Henrietta Shearer bought property on the Vineyard and started a business. They owned and operated Shearer Inn. They catered to Black people who wanted to vacation on an island during segregation.
Today, there are nearly 21 thousand people who have a home on Martha’s Vineyard. The Black population increased to almost 800 people. In the off season approximately 700 people, mostly retirees, live there. Approximately 30-35% are Black. When I was there, I had the pleasure of speaking with a Black man who owned a quaint summer home there. He and his family has vacationed there for years. The Black population is steadily increasing.
Francie Mae. September 16, 2023
References
African American Heritage Trail of Martha’s Vineyard.
History.Com Editors. Fugitive Slave Acts. Updated: June 29, 2023. Original: December 2, 2009. Website. Accessed September 16, 2023